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Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred names. But, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has left the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I am utterly shocked,” says the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest shop achieving such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender texture.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.